Welcome to Albania. We left our rusty ship and followed an Albanian registered red Ferrari to Passport control. The smart car was taken to one side for searching while we were directed on through negotiating the dilapidated flooded port road. Dark threatening clouds hung low round the mountains. We had to cross an 1100m pass and soon the torrential rain, thunder and lightning came in. The road turned into a river and the wind blew straight at us ferociously. The temperature dropped significantly and soon we were soaked to the skin. We continued climbing and knew there was a new tunnel at 400m elevation which would be a welcome alternative to the high pass in these conditions.

But we weren’t sure if they would let you cycle through it, particularly as it is 6km long. We climbed and climbed in the driving rain and closed in on the tunnel. We were waived through the toll and it all looked good. Once at the tunnel there was a sign which we thought we would ignore and decided to go for it! The alternative over the top was too bad. We cycled like mad through the long tunnel and managed to get about half way before  we were stopped by the tunnel authorities. Luckily they had a small lorry and were really nice and agreed to give us a lift through remainder of the tunnel rather than returning us to the entrance. Lots of smiles and we got away with it. Out the other side the storm had got worse. We pushed on and a nice cafe took us in for some Albanian food and tea. We were a sorry sight and left large puddles on the floor of the cafe as we stripped off our outer layers. Albanian music was playing and it all felt quite foreign and the people have been so kind to us.

After a day off to let the storm subside we continued on our way south towards Greece. The coastal mountainous scenery was stunning with views over towards Corfu. We imagined what it must have been like in the Hoxha days for the Albanians living with such suppression and looking over to Corfu so close across the straits. 

A small cable operated rickety ferry transported us and a couple of cars over a creek next to the remains of the ancient settlement of Butrint just a few kilometres from the Greek border.

And on down to Peloponneses crossing hilly rural landscape, reaching Korinthos and the the spectacular Corinth canal. Olive groves and orange tree plantations adorned the countryside. Tavernas with tables laid, checked tablecloths, and quintessential street side views over the blue sea was the regular theme.

The weather was warm, just perfect about 22degC and in fact for all this trip we have been lucky, and the stormy day in Albania was the only bad weather we had in seven weeks cycling to Athens. 

As we closed in on Athens the ride became very sociable meeting other cyclists that had done tours from all parts of Europe.  This brought a new fun dimension to the trip. 

Visits to iconic ancient Greek monuments were good side trips and added to the feeling of the immense age old history of the region. We enjoyed the grand structures of antiquity, but what we really love is the day to day stuff on the road, cooking lunch on a little beach or in the shade of an olive tree, stopping for coffee at a village cafe, and chats with people on our way.

Crossing a lovely island and two short ferry trips made for a scenic and very Greek way of arriving in Athens.  3500km cycle from home and we had arrived at Athens, the end of this leg of Bike Ride to the Great Wall of China.  

A trip to the Acropolis and a visit to the municipal market to soak up some atmosphere and Athenian life.  We escape to Aegina while waiting for our flight home. An hour ferry ride, a tranquil and beautiful backwater, such a contrast to Athens which really is a mass of drab 1960’s concrete apartments. The graffiti everywhere adds an edgy splash of harsh colour, but also a feeling of discontent and misery.